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| Woodworking Project |
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| Building a Bookcase There are few homes that couldn't use more shelves for storage, or if you are like me and have tons of books. To design a bookcase, keep in mind that it is essentially a box. The top, sides and bottom shelf define the space, and the back holds the other components rigid and square. Mine didn't need a back since it was a built-in model designed to effectively use that 'wasted' space on either side of the fireplace. When planning your bookcase, balance your storage requirements against strength, economy, and aesthetics. Though the basic components don't vary, you do have many choices in size, materials, shelving design, and joinery. Your bookcase can have fixed or adjustable shelves. Fixed shelves will make the case stronger. Generally, the bottom and top shelves are fixed; if the case is over 4 feet tall, fasten at least one middle shelf as well. I made all the shelves adjustable because I didn't need a lot of strength - the fireplace bricks are on one side and the wall on the other. I also wanted to be able to move the cases if I should happen to move. Adjustable shelves offer a lot more flexibility; they can be supported with slotted metal tracks and clips, or with pegs. I used the metal clips recessed into grooves for a neater look. The size of your bookcase depends largely on your storage needs (I needed lots!) and available space. The only design restriction is shelf span: Bookshelves longer than 24" have a tendency to sag if they're made from 3/4" particleboard. Better grades of fir and pine will span 32". I used pine for all components, the shelves being 24' long. Support longer shelves by using partitions. Most large storage units are made from plywood for ease of construction, but solid lumber is also good. Common pine is an economical choice and the wood is very easy to cut. |
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