 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
cut
tips
tools
safety
finishes
polish
basics
project
fasten
outdoor
|
|
| Woodworking Finishes |
| ||||||
| Pickling Wood The pickled finish found on pine is caused by dilute nitric acid, which is painted onto the wood. This deepens the colour of the pine, improving the contrast between the narrow, hard bands of summer growth and broad, soft bands of the spring growth. Always add acid to water, not water to acid. Clean the wood and , working along the grain, put the acid solution on as evenly as possible with a brush. Once you have the shade you want, neutralize the acid with a strong solution of washing soda and water (two parts soda to one part water). Rinse with clean water. All these steps serve to raise the grain, but that is part of the desired effect of pickled wood. The surface can be lightly sanded with 1/0 grade sandpaper. Scorching Wood Scorching the surface of wood lightly with a blowtorch is a way to accentuate both colour and grain in pine and similar softwoods. For an even charring all over, attach a fishtail nozzle to the blowtorch. The soft spring growth chars more readily than the hard, and subsequent wire brushing gives a seamed effect by digging out the spring growth. The surface can then be clear-sealed with a polyurethane varnish. Further variations can be achieved by putting on a thin coat of paint and wiping off the excess with a rag before it dries. A gray paint used like this will give a driftwood effect, and pale yellow or tan paint a lighter, blond shade. Bronze powder colour mixed with clear lacquer adds a special beauty of its own to the wood. Liming Wood Traditionally, this process is carried out on oak. The purpose of the process is to emphasize the full beauty of the wood's grain. It involves filling all the surface pores and grain lines so that they show up in sharp contrast to the wood. This filling makes the wood a good deal smoother than if it had been left untreated. The lime and water paste partially bleaches the natural yellowness out of the wood, leaving it a grey-brown. Lime does not react well to being sealed. Liming is only really effective on woods that have an open surface. Lime is a caustic substance and can damage your skin; so, wear rubber gloves when working on it. Prepare the wood surface to be limed, making sure that it is clean and free from dust. Mix .9kg of hydrated lime to 3.5L water until it resembles a stiffish paste. Using a coarse cloth or steel wool, rub the paste into the wood. Use a circular motion when rubbing to ensure that all the surface pores and indentations are filled. When the line is semi-dry, wipe off any surplus with a cloth, wiping across the grain. When the lime is thoroughly dry, smooth the surface with a fine grade sandpaper. Remove the residue filler with fine steel wool, then wipe with a clean cloth. To finish, apply a coat of white French polish followed by a white wax polish. Fuming Wood Fuming entails exposing the wood to the fumes given off by certain chemicals. Used mostly for oak, it turns the wood a deep, gold brown. Difficulties arise in getting a uniform shade which can vary from light to an almost black tone. Chemical finishes may affect finishes applied after the toning process has been carried out. Many toners leave behind noxious residues that are difficult to wash out of the wood. Fuming with ammonia offers some degree of control. |
 Sign Guestbook |
 View Guestbook |
 craftideas@canada.com |
|
. |
| Visitors: 02263 |