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The Arts of LockPicking


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Picking Master Locks

Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?

The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.

The first number:

Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.

The second number:

Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.

The third number:

After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.

This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).

The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger

Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks

While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.

Automobiles:

Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work. So:

American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230

ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.

Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit


they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:

Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801

LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.

The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:

Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408

For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.

Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:

A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646

Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.

If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:

Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588

VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.

Updated Lockpicking:

For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:

Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.

Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks

are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.

Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second. When this happens the lock
will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful, but when it does work, the results are
very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.

Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.

There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:

Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252

The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all. It will also open group two locks (including government,
high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?

$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.

For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.

If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...

The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot

length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:

C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly Roger

So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.

First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).

The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/

The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.

‡Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.


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