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| Sewing Stretch Fabrics |
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| One method of giving a yarn stretching ability is by crimping the yarn or giving it a high twist. Another type of yarn is made from special expandable fibres. Helanca is made from a thermoplastic fibre. Spandex is made from polyurethane. Lastex is made from yarn with a fine rubber core. Some stretch fabrics stretch in both a lengthwise and a crosswise direction and are used for general sportswear. Nylon jerseys are also classed as stretch fabrics. Use a strong synthetic sewing thread and try out various settings for the zigzag and stitch length on a scrap of fabric. If the seams still break when stretched, confine your machine stitching to those seams that have to bear the least strain and stitch the rest by hand. To stitch by hand, use a small back stitch or chain stitch worked on both sides of the seam. Avoid facings in stretch fabric garments as they create ridges which will always show on the outside. To finish an edge, neaten the raw edge with a zigzag or overlocking stitch, then roll to the inside and stitch it in place by hand. Fine dress zips are not strong enough for stretch fabrics. Use a very strong zip and stitch it with two rows of machine stitching. To protect areas that come into close contact with the body, use a lining of silk or cotton jersey, which is stitched into the seams when the garment is made up. |
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