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| Sewing Collars and Pockets |
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| Sewing Collars To make a well-rolled collar on a coat or jacket, mold the collar into the desired shape before attaching the collar to the neck edge. Work first with under-collar and interfacing. Stitch centre back seam of under-collar. Press seam open. Lap interfacing seam and baste to wrong side of under-collar. Baste unit into jacket and try on, establishing roll line. Mark roll line on interfacing side. Pad stitch to seam edges following curve of roll line, in parallel lines 1/4" apart, leaving seam allowance free. With right sides together, stitch top-collar and under-collar on unnotched edges, easing to fit. Trim seams in graded layers. Turn collar right side out. On underside of collar, steam press collar seam bringing it to underside so seam curves from collar ends to a maximum of 1/8" from edge of centre. With right sides up, roll collar over your hand, molding it into shape it should be in when worn. Mark the new seam line on top-collar with thread. Steam press collar edges again. To attach collar to coat, baste and stitch under-collar to neck edge of coat, making sure to check collar tips for even length and even placement. Clip seam allowance every 1/2". On top collar, clip every 1/2" to basting line and turn seam allowance under from collar ends to shoulder seams. Fold seam allowance of front facings so folded edges meet. Press. Slip-stitch facing and collar together with short hand stitches. Lining will cover raw edge of collar across back of neck later. Sewing Pockets Patch Pockets Cut a square the size you want, adding 1/2" seam allowance at the side and lower edges and 1" at the upper edge. Turn under all the edges and hem the upper one. Topstitch to the garment close to the edge and fasten off the top corners securely, because they will have to stand a lot of strain. Continental Pockets Cut two squares of fabric the size of the pocket plus seam allowance and a 1 1/2" turning for the top opening. Stitch the pieces together, right sides facing, along the sides and lower edge. Turn under the edges around the top and hem in place. Make two straps and sew them into each side of the pocket opening. Attach the pocket to the garment by stitching the straps between seam allowances. Apron Pockets These are arranged in a row across the front of a skirt. Cut a length of material to go right across the front of the skirt, with a 1' seam allowance along the bottom edge and sides and a 1/2" seam allowance along the top edge. Hem the top edge of the pocket. Stitch on the pocket. Turn in the seam allowance along the bottom edge and stitch it to the skirt. Divide the length into 3 or more equal sections and stitch through the skirt to make pocket divisions. Stitch sides of pockets into skirt side seams. |
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