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| WELCOME TO ALL...LET YOUR CORDWOOD EDUCATION BEGIN!!!PLEASE EXCUSE THE UPPERCASE LETTERS AS I HAVE A VISUAL DISABILITY! |
| THIS IS A PAGE FOR PEOPLE NEW TO THE SYSTEM.SO THEY CAN LEARN THE BASICS THEN JOIN MY MAIN BOARD. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cordwood ALSO CHECK OUT THIS SITE WHERE I REVIEW THE CORDWOOD BOOKS http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cordwood2 *************************************************************** CORDWOOD NEWBEE PAGE YOU WILL FIND THE BASICS OF THE CORDWOOD SYSTEM HERE.FIRST OF ALL CORDWOOD IS A SYSTEM OF LOG CONSTRUCTION .WHERE ONE TAKES LOGS AROUND 24" LONG.YOU LAY THEM IN TWO MORTAR BEDS WHERE THE ENDS OF THE LOGS BECOME THE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE FACE OF THE WALLS.[YOUR WALLS ARE COMPOSED OF __% LOGS AND __% MORTAR.] HISTORY: CORDWOOD HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME.THERE IS A MONESTARY IN GREECE OVER 1000 YEARS OLD.SIBERIA ALSO HAS A CORDWOOD STRUCTURE ABOUT 1000 YEARS OLD.IN NORTH AMERICA WE HAVE SEVERAL BUILDINGS RANGING FROM 100-200 YEARS OLD[OTTAWA VALLEY/ USA] CORDWOOD IS ALSO KNOWN BY MANY NAMES...HERE ARE A FEW.CORDWOOD,STACKWALL, STACKWOOD,ROUND WOOD WALL,FIRELOG WALL,BUTT END WALL,STOVEWOOD WALL,WOOD MASONRY,SHORT LOG WALL,FIREWOOD WALL,LOG END WALL ETC. TYPES OF CORDWOOD STRUCTURES: [1]LOAD BEARING: BUILD ENTIRELY WITH 24" LOGS AND MORTAR [2]N0N-LOAD BEARING: BUILT WITH A POST AND BEAM INNER FRAME[POST AND BEAM JUST CARRIES THE ROOF AND DOESN`T REALLY MAKE IT ANY STRONGER.USUALLY RECOMMENDED IN EARTHQUAKE ZONES.[BUT I KNOW OF MANY LOAD BEARING STRUCTURES IN EARTHQUAKE ZONES..CHECK WITH AN ENGINEER] [3]DOUBLE WALL: I FIND A LOT OF STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS WITH THIS SYSTEM.YOU COULD BUILD EASIER AND MORE EFFICIENTLY JUST BY USING 24"LOGS.[I`LL GET INTO SPECIFICS LATER.SEE BELOW] LOG SELECTION:[PICK AS HIGH ON THE LIST AS YOU CAN] *HIGHEST RESISTANCE TO ROT* PACIFIC YEW HIGH RESISTANCE BALD CYPRESS[NEW GROWTH] CEDARS JUNIPER REDWOOD *MODERATE RESISTANCE TO ROT* BALD CYPRESS[OLD GROWTH] DOUGLAS FIR WESTERN LARCH MONTEREY PINE EASTERN WHITE PINE PITCH PINE SLASH PINE SHORTLEAF PINE SPRUCE PINE TAMARACK *LOW RESISTANCE TO ROY* PONDEROSA PINE SUGAR PINE TABLEMOUNTAIN PINE VIRGINIA PINE *LOWER RESISTANCE TO ROT* SPRUCES *LOWEST RESISTANCE TO ROT* FIRS HEMLOCK[PROBLEMS WITH IT`S USE] SEASONING PROCESS FOR LOGS [1]FIRSTLY,THE LOGS ARE CUT IN THE WINTER..WHICH HAS BEEN A PROVEN SYSTEM SINCE 10BC. [APPARENTLY THE MOISTURE IS IN THE ROOTS OF THE TREES.WHEN THE TREE GOES DORMANT.PLUS AS SPRING COMES AND THE REMAINING SAP BEGINS TO RUN YOU PEEL THEM.THIS IS MUCH EASIER THAN PEELING DRIED LOGS]TRY TO USE UNDERSIZED LOGS 3"-6" DIAMETER.[YOU GET LESS SHRINKAGE AND CHECKING WITH SMALLER LOGS..PLUS THEY ARE IN LESS DEMAND THAN LARGER LOGS] [2]CUT YOUR LOGS TO ABOUT 8'6" IN LENGTH[THIS ALLOWS FOR 4 X 24" LOGS WITH EXTRA TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE ALL LONG ENOUGH.ALSO ALLOWS FOR CHECKING/CRACKING ENDS TO BE CUT OFF.SAP, FUNGI, MOLD,ROTTING ENDS CAN BE REMOVED.ALSO CUT MORE THAN YOU NEED TO ASSURE YOU DON`T RUN OUT. [3]STACK THE LOGS ON HIGH GROUND TO KEEP THEM DRIER.IN AN EAST WEST ORIENTATION WOULD BE BEST. [4]IN THE SPRING YOU PEEL THEM.THEN RESTACK THEM.IF YOU ARE IN A TERMITE AREA I`D SUGGEST SPRAYING THEM WITH A BORATE SOLUTION WHILE THEY ARE GREEN. [5]COVER THE TOP OF THE PILE WITH DARK PLASTIC AND LET IT HANG OVER THE EDGES BY A ABOUT 12".[BLOCKS THWE SUN THUS SLOWING DOWN THE SEASONING PROCESS THUS REDUCING THE CHECKING/CRACKING OF THE LOGS.] [6]NOW PLACE SOME ROCKS ON THE PLASTIC TO WEIGH IT DOWN.THEN COVER WITH BOWS TO GIVE THE LOGS MORE SHADE. [7]LOG BUILDERS LET THEM SIT FOR 2-3 YEARS.WHICH IS WHAT I`D DO.BUT I THINK THE PROCESS COULD BE SHORTENED IF YOU HAD NO OTHER OPTION. [8]NOW IN OCTOBER OF YOUR FIRST YEAR I`D TAKE THE LOGS AND CUT THEM TO SIZE[24"].USE AN ELECTRIC SAW OR SAW RIG WITH A METAL BLADE...THIS GIVES THE LOGS A SMOOTHER FINISH.[THIS SLOWS DOWN WATER PENETRATION AND DOESN`T GIVE BUGS A GOOD FOOT HOLD] [9]RESTACK THEM AND COVER THEM AS BEFORE. [10]WHEN THE MOISTURE CONTENT OF THE LOGS GETS TO BE ABOUT 12%-14% THEY ARE READY.I`M NOT SURE WHEN YOU CAN ATTAIN THIS MOISTURE READING.BUT IF YOU LET ANOTHER SUMMER PASS AS I WOULD THEY WOULD BE FINE.BUT IF YOU CAN GET THE 12%-14% EARLIER THEN THE CHOICE IS YOURS. [11]IT TAKES A LOG 30' LONG ABOUT 2-3 YEARS TO REACH AN EQUILIBRIUM WITH THE AIR.USING SHORTER LOGS SHOULD SPEED UP THE PROCESS. [12]ONE THING I`D LIKE YOU TO UNDERSTAND IS THE BETTER YOU SEASON YOUR LOGS THE BETTER CHANCES ARE YOU WILL BUILD SUCCESSFULLY.IF YOU BUILD WITH POORLY SEASONED LOGS YOU WILL GET MORE SHRINKAGE...THUS AIR AND WATER PENETRATION. [13]FINALLY,DON`T THINK YOUR LOGS AT THIS POINT ARE COMPLETELY SEASONED.YOUR LOGS WILL CONTINUE TO SEASON FOR ANOTHER 2-8 YEARS AFTER YOU MOVE IN AND HEAT THE PLACE.YOUR LOGS WILL ALWAYS BE AFFECTED BY MOISTURE AND WILL GAIN AND LOOSE IT WITH THE SEASONS.AS WELL AS BE AFFECTED BY THE HUMIDITY IN THE HOUSE. NOTE:DO NOT DESPAIR IF THIS TIME SHEDULE DOESN`T ACTUALLY WORK WITH YOUR NEEDS.THERE ARE SHORT CUTS AND OPTIONS STILL AVAILABLE TO YOU.YOU CAN BUY OLD FENCE POSTS,POWER POLES, USE STANDING TIMBER IN A FOREST FIRE AREA,USE TREES KILLED BY BARK EATING INSECTS,USE DRIFTWOOD,ABANDONED PULPWOOD,USE SMALLER LOGS LEFT BEHIND ON LOGGING JOBS,MILL REJECTS, ETC.THE OPTIONS ARE ENDLESS.[I TRACKED DOWN 20 CORDS OF SOFTWOOD FOR SOMEONE IN 1 CALL THAT WAS 2-3 YEARS OLD..THIS IS NO REAL BARGAIN WHEN YOU START PEELING THEM.VERY LABOUR INTENSIVE WHEN DRY.WHEN GREEN THEY JUST STRIP RIGHT OFF.IF YOU PEELED LOGS ONCE YOU WOULD AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS THE NEXT TIME] CORDWOOD PRO`S [1]COST...I`VE SEEN ANYWHERE FROM $1.00-$25.00 PER SQ FT.[CONVENTIONAL STICK HOUSING RUNS FOR ABOUT $75.00-$100.00 PER SQ FT./CONVENTIONAL LOG BUILDINGS RUN OVER $200.00 PER SQ FT] I THINK CORDWOOD ESTIMATES ARE LOWER THAN ALL OTHER ALTERNATIVE HOUSING AS WELL.I WORK AS AN ESTIMATOR IN CONSTRUCTION AND I FIND THESE PRICES TO BE LOW.BUT THERE ARE SO MANY VARIABLES AND ARE HARD TO COMPARE.YOUR SAVINGS ARE MAINLY IN LABOUR AND YOUR WALLS[WHICH DON`T REQUIRE A COVERING] [2] ECOLOGICALY SOUND/ENVIROMENTALY FRIENDLY:IT IS ORGANIC ARCHITECTURE AT ITS BEST.YOU CAN USE LOGS THAT HAVE NO OTHER PURPOSE.AS THE IRREGULARITIES OF TWISTED LOGS CAN BE STILL INCORPERATED INTO THE WALL.OLD DISCARDED LOGS AS LONG AS THEY ARE SOUND CAN STILL BE USED/ [3]PROVEN:THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN AROUND A LONG TIME WITH STRUCTURES STILL IN USE OVER 1000 YEARS. [4]LOW SKILL REQUIREMENTS:THIS HAS BEEN DONE FROM JUST READING A BOOK.BUT I`D RECOMMEND SOME HANDS ON PRACTICE FIRST.BUILD A STRUCTURE THAT IS NON-ESSENTIAL FIRST[DOG HOUSE,KIDS PLAY HOUSE,BOAT HOUSE,WOOD SHED,GARAGE ETC]THERE ISN`T ANOTHER SYSTEM EASIER THAN CORDWOOD.YOU BUILD UP THE WALLS AND SLAP TRUSSES ON THE ROOF...INSTANT HOME. [5]LABOUR:YOU AND YOUR FAMILY IS ALL THAT IS REALLY REQUIRED[TWO ADULTS AND A COUPLE OF KIDS AND YOU`RE ON YOUR WAY] [6]SECURITY:THEY ARE DAMN NEAR BULLET PROOF.[A 22 CAL.BULLET CAN PENETRATE ANY STICK FRAME HOUSE UNLESS IT HITS A STUD.BUT WOULDN`T PENETRATE THE MORTAR OR LOG WALL IN CORDWOOD] [7]WINDOWS:I LIKE THE IDEA OF THE 24" WINDOW SILLS.YOUR KIDS CAN SIT THERE AND READ.YOU CAN SET YOUR PLANTS THERE.YOUR COLLECTABLES ETC. [8]RENOVATIONS:YOU CAN EASILY RELOCATE A DOOR OR WINDOW. [9]INSULATION:YOU CAN ATTAIN AN R=48+ WALL.WHICH WOULD GIVE YOU A COMFORTABLE LIVING SPACE IN WINTER AS WELL AS SUMMER..THE DAYS OF CHEAP FUEL ARE BEHIND US THE SUPPLY IS DROPPING FASTER THAN PRODUCTION.IT IS ONLY TIME BEFORE THE PRICES GO WAY UP.SO BUILD WITH AN ALTERNATE HEAT SOURCE AS WELL. [10]LOW TAXES:SINCE IT ISN`T CONVENTIONAL YOU SHOULD BE TAXED A LOT LOWER THAN A CONVENTIONAL LOG HOME. [11]FIRE RESISTANCE:PEOPLE HAVE TRIED TO BURN THEM COMPLETELY IN TESTS AND WEREN`T ABLE TO DESTROY THEM.THEY JUST PUT ON A NEW ROOF AND INTERIOR WALLS AND COVERED THE WALLS. [SHOW ME ANOTHER ALTERNATIVE HOUSING STYLE THAT CAN DO THIS] [12]QUALITY:EVEN THOUGH IT IS CHEAP TO BUILD.I`D STILL CALL IT A QUALITY HOME AS IT IS BETTER BUILT,EASIER TO HEAT,SHOULD OUTLIVE THE SURROUNDING STICK HOMES. [13]SIZE:BECAUSE OF SAVINGS YOU CAN BUILD BIGGER THAN YOU THOUGH YOU COULD AFFORD. [14]PRIDE: IN BUILDING IT YOURSELF YOU CAN FEEL PROUD OF WHAT YOU HAVE DONE.ALSO OF THOSE FAMILY MOMENTS TOGETHER IN BUILDING IT. [15]MATERIALS: ARE ALL LIGHT WEIGHT AND EASY TO CARRY AND USE.AND CHEAPTO BUY. [16]DEBT FREE:IT IS POSSIBLE TO BUILD A CORDWOOD HOME AS YOU GO AND BE MORTGAGE FREE. [17[STRUCTURE:THE SHELL OF THE STRUCTURE DOESN`T REALLY ADD TO MY QUALITY OF LIFE .HOWEVER IF I COULD AFFORD A HOT TUB,SAUNA,SATELITE,BIG SCREEN TV,JACUSSI,TOP OF THE LINE APPLIANCES,NEW CAR,POOL TABLE,BETTER SCHOOLING FOR THE KIDS ,BACK YARD POOL,FULL SERVICE WORK SHOP ETC.THESE WOULD MAKE LIFE MORE INTERSTING CORDWOOD CON`S: [1]TIME: IT TAKES LOTS OF PREPWORK TO GET ONE READY TO BUILD. [2]ACCEPTANCE:BECAUSE IT IS NON-CONVENTIONAL YOU WILL RUN INTO SOME SNAGS.[HOWEVER,I`M TRYING TO GET AN ASSOCIATION GOING .AND THERE ARE TWO MEMBERS OF MY MAIN BOARD COMING UP WITH PLANS. ONCE THESE ARE IN PLACE THE SNAGS SHOULD BE ELIMINATED] [3]NEIGHBOURS:IF YOU TRY TO BUILD ONE IN A YUPPY SUBDIVISSION EXPECT SOME FLACK.THESE TYPE OF PEOPLE IN THEIR UPSCALE HOUSING ARE INTO THEIR HOUSE AS AN INVESTMENT MORE THAN A DWELLING.. YOU`RE BUILDING A HOUSE THEY NEVER HEARD ABOUT AND FEEL THREATENED AT LEAST $$$ WISE.THEY THINK YOUR HOUSE WILL BRING DOWN THEIR PROPERTY VALUE. [4]RE-SALE: BECAUSE IT IS NON-CONVENTIONAL IT IS GOING TO BE A HARD SELL.[BUILD BIGGER THAN SURROUNDING HOMES,CLOSE TO ALL AMENITIES,LANDSCAPE THE PROPERTY....THESE THINGS WILL MAKE IT ATTRACTIVE.EVEN THOUGH YOU ARE LARGER TRY TO SELL IT AT THE GOING RATE OF THE SMALLER HOMES.THE EXTRA BEDROOMS FOR THE SAME MONEY HELPS OFFSET THEIR CONCERNS. [5]SHRINKAGE AND SWELLING:IF BUILT IMPROPERLY YOU CAN GET SHRINKAGE AND SWELLING.WATER AND AIR CAN PENETRATE THE WALL IF BUILT IMPROPERLY.[THERE ARE OPTIONS TO CORRECT THE SHRINKAGE... CAULKING/STUCCO ETC] [6]FINANCING: BANKS HAVE A PROBLEM WITH ALTERNATIVE HOUSING.[SELL THE BANK...SHOW THEM MAGAZINE ARTICLES/BOOKS/PHOTO`S OF LOCAL CORDWOOD HOMES /FIRE TEST REPORTS ETC.] [7] SOUND ADVICE: [1]LEARN AS MUCH ABOUT CORDWOOD/LOGS/MORTAR AS YOU CAN BEFORE YOU ALLOW YOURSELF TO BE EDUCATED BY SOMEONE WHO HASN`T. [2]THERE IS A LOT OF MISINFORMATION ON CORDWOOD SO CHECK EVERYTHING YOU READ WITH A PROFESSIONAL.[ARCHITECT,ENGINEER,LOGGER,MASON,FARMER,INSPECTOR ETC]QUALIFY WHAT YOU READ. [3]KISS:KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID...IF YOU VARY FROM THE BASICS EXPECT TO RUN INTO PROBLEMS.[THESE THINGS REQUIRE MORE SKILL THAN THE NEWBEE HAS AT HIS DISPOSAL...SOD ROOFS,THATCHED ROOFS,LOG ROOFS,POST AND BEAM FRAME,DOUBLE WALL[I`D STAY AWAY FROM THIS AS I`D SAY ITS FLAWED STRUCTURALLY] [4]THINK IT OUT:NOTHING WORKS IF IT HASN`T BEEN THOUGHT OUT FULLY.RUSHING LEADS TO MISTAKES OR OMISSIONS.[KEEP A JOURNAL AND ADD ALL THE THINGS YOU WANT TO INCORPERATE INTO YOUR HOUSE. THINK OF THINGS YOU LIKED AND HATED IN PREVIOUS RESIDENCES AND ALLOW FOR THEM.GO TO HOME SHOWSAND SEE WHATS NEW. [5]USE 24" LOGS:IT GIVES YOU A MORE STABLE WALL.EASIER TO STACK THAN A SMALL LOG.MORE INSULATION ETC. [6]RESEARCH: READ ALL YOU CAN BY ROB ROY,JACK HENSTRIDGE,RICHARD FLATAU,CLIFF SHOCKEY,ELLIS LAKE,DR .A.M.LANSDOWN,DR. KRIS J DICK.,DR. A.B SPARLING,GREG KORTMAN,FRANCOIS TANGUAY.VISIT MY MAIN BOARD AND ASK QUESTIONS. [7]EXPERIENCE:BEFORE YOU BUILD TRY GET SOME TRAINING OR HANDS ON EXPERIENCE.BUILD THAT NON-ESENTIAL STRUCTURE OR A PRACTICE WALL. [8]MENTORS: TRY FIND SOMEONE LOCAL TO HELP [9]DON`T START THINKING YOU KNOW IT ALL...THERE IS ONE TO MANY TWO YEAR KNOW IT ALLS OUT THERE ALREADY. HOW TO TEST A BUILDERS SAVY WITH CORDWOOD.THESE ARE ALL BASICS THAT YOU SHOULD FOLLOW AND IF THE BUILDER YOU TALK TO DOESN`T DO THE FOLLOWING THEN HE DOESN`T KNOW THE BASICS OF THE SYSTEM...AND DON`T YOU MAKE THOSE SAME ERRORS. [1]THE HOUSE SHOULD BE BUILD 24" OFF THE GROUND FOR SPLASH GUARD.IF YOUR LOGS ARE LOWER THEY WILL GET WET AND ROT.[START LOOKING AT PICTURES ...I FIND VERY FEW THAT DO IT RIGHT.]YOUR LOGS IF SEASONED PROPERLY AND BUILT OFF THE GROUND DON`T REQUIRE ANY MORE PROTECTION.BUT IF THE WATER CONTENT GETS ABOVE 20% THEN ROT IS UNAVOIDABLE.ALSO CONSIDER THE MELTING SNOW AGAINST THE BUILDING IN THESPRING.THIS 24" HEIGHT ALSO GIVES SOME PROTECTION AGAINST TERMITES [YOU WOULD SEE THEIR TUBES] [2]OVERHANG:BUILD A 24" OVERHANG ON THE ROOF.THIS HELPS KEEP THE WALLS DRY.THIS OVERHANG IS GOOD ENOUGH TO PROTECT A SINGLE STORY STRUCTURE.BUT A TWO STORY STRUCTURE WITH MORE WALL SPACE IS LESS PROTECTED. [3]THE LOGS SHOULD HAVE BEEN PEELED OFF[COMPOUNDS THE SHRINKAGE PROBLEM AND SHELTERS BUGS FROM THE LIME MIX...THE LIME HELPS TO DETER THE BUGS TO SOME DEGREE. [4]HE SHOULD HAVE USED A MORTAR MIX WITH LIME AS A CONCRETE MIX IS LESS FORGIVING.REMEMBER THAT MASONRY CEMENT IS NOT REQUIRED TO CONTAIN LIME.AND PRODUCE HIGH STRENGTH MORTARS...THESE ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR CORDWOOD WALLS. [5]THEY SHOULD HAVE MADE USE OF THE BEST SOFTWOOD AVAILABLE AND SEASONED THEM FOR 2-3 YEARS. AND USED 24" LENGTHS[MORE INSULATION,EASIER TO STACK,MORE STABLE THAN SHORTER LOGS] [6]HE SHOULD HAVE CHECKED SOIL CONDITIONS BEFORE HE BUILT.TO SEE THAT THE SOIL COULD BEAR THE WEIGHT OF THE CORDWOOD AND FOUNDATION.NO SENSE BUILDING IF IT WAS NEVER MEANT TO CARRY THE WEIGHT. [7]HE SHOULD HAVE BUILT ON HIGHER GROUND TO MAKE USE OF THE NATURAL DRAINAGE.ALSO CHECKED TO SEE IF HE WAS ON A FLOOD PLAIN. [8]HE SHOULD HAVE USED SMALL ROUND LOGS AND NOT LARGE OR SPLIT LOGS[SPLIT LOGS LEAVE TOO MUCH FLAT AREAS IN THE WALL WHERE THE WATER CAN LAY TRAPPED AND CAUSE THE WOOD TO ROT.ROUND LOGS TEND TO SHED MOISTURE.[THEY TEND TO SPLIT TO AVOID CHECKING/CRACKING BUT THIS CURE IS WORSE THAN THE CAUSE.] [9]HE SHOULD HAVE CUT THE LOGS WITH A METAL SAW TO GET A SMOOTHER CUT THAN WHAT YOU GET FROM A CHAINSAW.[THE WATER CAN`T PENETRATE THE LOG ASEASY WHEN SMOOTH]ALSO MOLD,FUNGUS AND BUGS DON`T HAVE AN EASY FOOTHOLD.EASIER TO CLEAN.YOU CAN GRIND THEM BUT CUTTING THEM RIGHT IS EASIER. [10]HE SHOULD HAVE USED A JIG TO MAKE THE LOGS ALL UNIFORM IN LENGTH.FASTER AND BETTER FINAL RESULTS [11]HE SHOULD HAVE USED AN INSULATION THAT IS NOT WATER PERMIABLE...I`M GOING WITH STYROFOAM BEADS OR SHREDDED STYROFOAM IF I CAN GET SOME TO BREAK UP AND USE. [HE SHOULD HAVE STAYED AWAY FROM FIBER GLASS,SAW DUST[HASWASHED AWAY],CELULOSE ETC]YOU SEE WET INSULATION HAS HARDLY ANY INSULATION VALUE. [12]HE SHOULD HAVE USED A LIME BASED MORTAR...HE SHOULD HAVE COVERED THE WALLS AS HE BUILT FOR SHADE.SPRAYED THEM WITH A GARDEN SPRAYER WITH A FINE NOZZLE.TO SLOW CURE THEM AND COVERED THEM WITH DAMP BLANKETS. [13] HE SHOULDN`T HAVE WORKED WITH MORTAR BELOW 40 DEGREES -F OR ABOVE 93 DEGREES-F [14]HE SHOULD HAVE USED A MORTAR MIX WITH WET SAWDUST OVER DRY.USE ANY SOFTWOOD SAWDUST [BUT DOUGLAS FIR AND RED CEDAR] [15]HE SHOULD HAVE ORIENTED THE HOUSE FOR SOLAR GAIN.[LOTS OF SOUTHERN WINDOWS.] [16]IF HE BUILT ON A GRAVEL BURM OR SLAB AND THERE IS A CHANCE THE HOUSE COULD BE SERVICED HE SHOULD HAVE ALLOWED FOR IT BY INSTALLING ALL THE HARDWARE REQUIRED.BECAUSE IF YOU DIG UP UNDER THE GRAVEL ITS HARD TO REPLACE WITHOUT PROBLEMS.[IF THE CONNECTIONS ARE ALREADY IN ...NO PROBLEMS [17]HE SHOULD HAVE USED TRUSSES[RAFTERS EXERT AN OUTWARD PUSH ON A WALL AND THATS NOT GOOD FOR A MASONRY WALL LIKE CORDWOOD] [18]HE SHOULD HAVE TRIED A TEST PROJECT BEFORE BUILDING THE LIVING QUARTERS [19]HE SHOULDN`T HAVE SEALED THE MORTAR OR THE LOGS[BOTH HAVE TO BREATH SO THAT ANY MOISTURE IN THE WALL CAVITY CAN ESCAPE...TRAPPED IN THE CAVITY THE LOGS WILL ROT.THE LIME MORTARS ARE MORE VAPOUR PERMIABLE THAN THE HARDER MORTARS.] [20]IF HE USED HARDWOOD,CONCRETE AS MORTAR,LEFT THE BARK ON,SPLIT THE LOGS,DOUBLE WALL SYSTEM,BUILT ON THE GROUND,NO OVER HANG ,IMPROPER SEASONING ETC RUN!!!! THE TRUE R-VALUE OF CORDWOOD: OTHER SYSTEMS TRY TO LOWER THE INSULATION VALUE OF CORDWOOD.BUT THE TRUE VALUE FOR PINE IS R=2 PER INCH.THIS WAS FROM A STUDY IN 1979 BY THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT.SO A 24" LOG WOULD HAVE A MINIMUM R-VALUE OF R=48.[I CAN TELL YOU HOW TO ACHIEVE AN R=93 WALL WITH CORDWOOD] NOW YOU ARE ON YOUR WAY TO DOING IT RIGHT! ANY QUESTIONS LET ME KNOW.JUST E-MAIL ME BELOW SEE YOU AT THE MAIN BOARD http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cordwood ********************************************************************* HERE IS THE CHALLENGE IF YOU WANT TO TEST WHAT YOU LEARNED GO TO THE WEB PAGE http://www.daycreek GO INTO THE HEADING MEET THE CORDWOOD MASONS.HERE YOU CAN CRITIQUE THE EXPERTS AND INSTRUCTORS.READ WHAT THEY SAY ABOUT [MIX,LOGS ETC.].EXAMINE THE PICTURES AND SEE WHAT YOU AS NEWBEE`S KNOW AFTER ONLY READING THE BASICS.[REMEMBER THESE ARE STATEMENTS THEY MADE THEMSELVES.HOW THEY THEMSELVES BUILD.PICTURES THEY ARE PROUD OF....I`M ONLY ASKING YOU TO EXAMINE WORK BY THE MASTERS]....IF YOU FIND ANYTHING WRONG THEN YOU HAVE LEARNED FROM THE EXPERIENCE AND I`VE SUCCEEDED IN TEACHING HOPEFULLY.THIS SEEMED TO BE THE MOST NON-INTRUSIVE WAY TO TEST YOU WITH OUT LOOKING LIKE I WAS PICKING ON SOMEONE.YOU ARE JUST EXAMINING THE WORKS OF PEOPLE THEY WANTED YOU TO SEE... E-MAIL ME IF YOU SPOTTED ANY IRREGULARITIES. ********************************************************************* THERE IS ALSO A "CORDWOOD LABOUR EXCHANGE "ON MY MAIN BOARD.HERE YOU TRADE OFF FREE LABOUR FOR FREE HANDS ON EXPERIENCE. ********************************************************************* |
| OTHER THINGS I DISAGREE WITH....AS THE CORDWOOD DEVIL`S ADVOCATE |
| HERE ARE SOME POINTS I DISAGREE WITH OR QUESTION. ********************************** *DOUBLE WALL SYSTEM: ********************************** FIRSTLY ,I WAS QUITE INTERESTED IN THIS SYSTEM WHEN I DISCOVERED IT.I`M NOT OUT TO HURT CLIFF SHOCKEY IN ANY WAY.BUT I`D ALSO LIKE TO INFORM THE CORDWOOD PUBLIC OF SOME OF THE CONCERNS I HAVE ABOUT THE SYSTEM.SINCE ANY COMMENT ABOUT THE SYSTEM SEEMS TO DRAW CLIFF INTO IT....NO ONE ELSE IS WRITING ABOUT IT.THIS IS NOT MEANT TO BE CONFRONTATIONAL BUT TO GIVE OTHERS A DIFFERENT OPINION.EVERY TIME I ANSWER A QUESTION RELATED TO DOUBLE WALL...SOME ONE ALWAYS COMES BACK WITH TALK TO THE EXPERT THE GUY WHO INVENTED IT...AS I`VE BEEN TRYING TO EDUCATE ALL YOU NEWBEES.BECAUSE SOMETHING IS IN PRINT DOESN`T MAKE IT 100% FACTUAL...LETS NOT BRING THE NATIONAL ENQUIRER INTO THIS..[EVEN WHAT I SAY...AND AS I SAY TALK EVERYTHING YOU HEAR AND READ OVER WITH ARCHITECTS AND ENGINEERS...QUALIFY WHAT YOU LEARN.REMEMBER THEY ONCE WROTE THE EARTH WAS FLAT,MAN WILL NEVER FLY,THE EARTH REVOLVED AROUND THE SUN ,,X-RAYS WERE SAFE.LOOK AT ALL THE PRODUCTS THAT ARE NOW TOXIC THAT WERE ACCEPTED A FEW YEARS AGO.[SPEAKING OF TOXIC; POWER POLES ARE TREATED WITH TOXIC CHEMICALS] IF ALL THAT IS IN CORDWOOD BOOKS IS TRUE.WHY DO I GET PEOPLE TELLING ME THEY FEEL THEY WERE LIED TO..NO MENTION OF THE WIND BLOWING THROUGH THE WALL.RAIN BEING SUCKED RIGHT THROUGH ERRODING THE SAWDUST INSULATION BY NEGATIVE PRESSURE.WALLS BEING TWISTED OUT OF SHAPE.ASK THAT PERSON WHO STUCCOED HIS OUTER WALLS OR PUT SIDING UP IF HE GOT THE FACTS FROM A BOOK. [1]STRUCTURALY: (a)I EXPRESSED MONTHS AGO THAT THERE ARE NO TIES IN THE WALL.THATS A CODE VIOLATION IN MY AREA.[APPARENTLY, THAT HAS BEEN CHANGED SINCE...SINCE IT WASN`T IN THE BOOK OR ON ANY SECTIONS OF THE WALL] (b)IF SOMEONE WAS TO BUILD WITH RAFTERS THEN THE OUTWARD PUSH ON THOSE BARELY STANDING UNCONNECTED WALLS WOULD BE A DISASTER. (c)WOULD TWO UNATTACHED 6" CORDWOOD WALLS STAND AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE. (d)WATER CAN PENETRATE THE WALL AND LAY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE WALL/TOP OF FOOTING.WET LOGS MEAN ROTTEN LOGS...NO WHERE FOR THIS WATER TO DRAIN.THIS CAVITY CAN HARVEST MOLD/MILDEW ETC.[HIS BOLTED WOODEN 2" X 8" PLATES WOULD ROT] (e)I HAD A STRUCTURAL ENGINEER LOOK AT IT AND HE SHOOK HIS HEAD. (f)I`VE SEEN BRICK,CINDER BLOCK WALLS BLOW OVER DURING CONSTRUCTION.THESE NON-SUPPORTED WALLS COULD DO THE SAME.BUT I`VE NEVER SEEN A 24" SOLID CORDWOOD WALL BE MOVED BY ANYTHING. (g) A 24" SOLID CORDWOOD WALL WOULD BE ABLE TO SURVIVE HIGH WINDS EASIER THAN THIS SYSTEM. IF THE WIND WAS ABLE TO MAKE ANY HEAD WAY THIS WOULD SHOW ITSELF IN CRACKS IN THE MORTAR THEN POSSIBLY FAILURE. (h)BUILDING THEM ON THE GROUND ISN`T GOOD.WHERE WATER FROM RAIN OR MELTING SNOW CAN ENTER THE CAVITY AND UNDERMINING THE STRUCTURE [2] DESIGN: (a) FIRST OF ALL I SEE NO BENEFIT IN THE SYSTEM.[HARD TO BALANCE 6" LOGS AND BUILD LET ALONE TWO SUCH WALLS....BALANCE DOESN`T SOUND STABLE.BUILDING CONVENTIONALLY WITH 24" LOGS WOULD BE EASIER AND FASTER PLUS MORE STABLE] (b)TWICE THE WALLS...TWICE THE WORK[CUTTING ,BUILDING ETC.] (c)CAN`T BE BUILT ON A 8"-10" FOUNDATION WALL. (d)HARDER TO MAKE ANY CHANGES TO WALLS.IF YOU WENT TO PUT IN A LAUNDRY VENT AFTER THE FACT.YOU WOULD HAVE DIFFICULTY INSTALLING IT.YOU WOULD ALSO DESTROY THE VAPOUR BARRIER BY PUNCTURING IT.CONVENTIONAL CORDWOOD YOU JUST POP OUT A LOG WITH A SLEDGE HAMMER.YOU CAN ALSO DRILL THROUGH A SPECIFIC LOG IN CONVENTIONAL CORDWOOD. (e)HIS CONCRETE FOUNDATION DESIGN WHERE IT LOOKS LIKE AN "I-BEAM".WHERE HE POURED A THICKER TOP ISN`T A GOOD DESIGN APPARENTLY. (f)I STILL THINK THE CAVITY COULD CAUSE MOISTURE PROBLEMS, (g)HE USED POWER POLES AND MY CONCERN IS THAT THEY ARE GENERALLY TREATED WITH TOXIC CHEMICALS[CREOSOTE AND PENTA(CONTAINS PCB`S)] ...THEY WOULD BE REFUSED AT A LANDFILL. [3]EFFICIENCY: (a) DOESN`T LIVE UP TO THE R-VALUE GIVEN WITH THE INFO HE HAD AVAILABLE. {b)IF IT IS SO ENERGY EFFICIENT ...WHY DOES HE BLOCK OUT THE SUN.[OVERHANG TO BLOCK SUMMER SUN...SHUTTERS TO CUT OUT SUN]MOST CONVENTIONAL CORDWOOD HOMES I`VE ENTERED HAD TO TURN THE HEAT ON IN THE SUMMER TIME.THEY WERE SOLAR DESIGNED TO GET SUN IN TO WARM THE PLACE.SOLAR COULDN`T CUT IT ALONE.THESE HOMES ARE SO WELL INSULATED THEY DON`T REQUIRE AIR CONDITIONING IN THE DEPTHS OF SUMMER.IF YOU RECOMMEND BLOCKING THE SUN THEN YOUR PLACE CAN`T BE THAT WELL INSULATED. (c)HE RECOMMENDS RAISING THE CEILING HEIGHT.THEY DO THAT IN THE TROPICS AND IN THE OLD SOUTHERN PLANTATION HOMES TO COOL THE PLACE IN THE SUMMER.[IF THE DOUBLE WALL SYSTEM GETS THAT HOT IN SUMMER WITH THE SUN BLOCKED.. THIS SUPERINSULATED WALL DOESN`T SEEM TO WORK.BUT WHERE YOU PAY FOR HEAT YOU WOULD LOOSE IT TO YOUR CEILING.[WE USE 8' CEILINGS IN CANADA AND THEY USE 14' CEILINGS IN SINGAPORE...AND SINCE I LIVE IN CANADA I`LL STICK WITH 8']I ONCE LIVED IN AN EXECUTIVE HOUSE THAT HAD A SUNKEN LIVING ROOM.COMFORT WAS UNATTAINABLE.TO BE COMFORTABLE IN THE LIVING ROOM MADE THE BEDROOMS TOO HOT AND VICE VERSA. (d)WITH NO MORTAR SEPERATION IN THE WALLS THEY BECOME ALMOST UNINSULATED...IT WOULD BE FASTER,CHEAPER AND PROBABLY MORE EFFICIENT TO BUILD A STICK HOUSE.YOU COULD BE MOVED INTO THE STICK HOUSE BEFORE THIS WAS 4' OFF THE FOUNDATION [4]PRACTICALITY:[I SEE NOTHING PRACTICAL ABOUT THIS SYTEM AT ALL.] (a)TWICE AS MUCH CUTTING (b)TWICE AS MUCH WORK (c)HARD TO BALANCE AND PLUMB 6" WALLS. (d)NOT AS STABLE AS A SOLID CORDWOOD WALL (e)REPAIRS HARDER TO PERFORM (f)LOGS MIGHT NOT BE ABLE TO BREATH PROPERLY (g)I DON`T SEE THE ENERGY EFFICIENCY AT ALL.[RATHER THE LACK THERE OF...SEEING AS ITS THE ONLY CORDWOOD SYTEM TRYING TO BLOCK THE SUN WHILE THE OTHERS TRY TO GAIN FROM IT]I KNOW PEOPLE WHO HAVE TO HEAT THEIR CORDWOOD HOME IN THE SUMMER BECAUSE IT IS SO WELL INSULATED.I HAVEN`T HEARD THAT CLAIM FOR DOUBLE WALLS.. [5]LIKES: (a)I LIKED THE WHOLE SYSTEM TRUSSES (b)I LIKED THE IDEA HE TRIED TO COMBAT THE AIR PENETRATION OF THE WALL. (c)I LIKED HIS ATTEMPT TO IMPROVE CORDWOOD HOUSING... **************************************************** * SPLIT VERSUS UNSPLIT ROUND LOGS* PRO`S FOR SPLIT: [1]LIGHTER..EASIER TO WORK WITH[BUT HAZARDOUS] [2]MIGHT GET RID OF CHECKING ...BUT LETS NOT JUMP TO CONCLUSIONS. THE SPLIT LOGS CAN STILL CHECK. [3]QUICK SEASONING... CON`S FOR SPLIT: [1]SPLITTING THE LOGS WILL ULTIMATELY PRODUCE MANY FLAT SPOTS IN THE WALL AREA THUS TRAPPING WATER.WHICH WILL FIND ITS WAY DEEP INTO THE WALL CAVITY IF NOT ALL THE WAY THROUGH. [2]BECAUSE YOU HAVE NOW CREATED SHARP EDGES...THERE IS THE LIKELY HOOD THAT THESE SHARP CORNERS CAN WORK LIKE LITTLE LEVERS AND CRACK YOUR MORTAR WHEN THEY SWELL. [3]THERE COULD BE MORE ADSORPTION OF WATER OR ADDITION OF SAME INTO THE CAVITY BY SPLITTING THE LOGS.IT MIGHT AFFECT THE WAY MOISTURE PASSES THROUGH LOGS NORMALY. [4]SINCE SPLITTING BASICLY WEAKENS THE ENDS AND MAKES IT BROOM OUT.IT WOULD BE HARDER TO CAULK AND SEAL THEM COMPLETELY. [5]AT FIRST THOUGHT IT LOOKS LIKE THERE COULD BE A STRONGER BOND BETWEEN MORTAR AND LOG.BUT BECAUSE THE EDGES WILL BE LOOSE THEN ITS NOT A BETTER BOND. [6]I CAN SEAL CHECKING FROM ROT BUT NOT ALL THESE AREAS THAT WOULD BE CREATED WHERE WATER WOULD LAY ON THE SPLIT LOGS. [7]MORE ENERGY TO SPLIT THE LOGS. [8]HAZARDOUS TO WORK WITH. [9]MORE CONSCIOUS EFFORT PUT INTO PLACEMENT OF EACH PIECE.[ACTUALLY THERE WOULD BE NO REAL WAY TO PLACE THESE SPLIT LOGS WITH ANY DEGREE OF CERTANTY THAT WATER WOULDN`T RUN INTO THE WALL.ROUND IS ROUND IT GOES ANYWHERE. [10]WHERE THE EDGES ARE LOOSE AND RAIN CAN HOLD UP IN THE LOOSE ENDS.SWELLING OR FREEZING MIGHT OCCUR.SWELLING SPELLS TROUBLE [11]I VIEWED A CORDWOOD HOUSE I WORKED ON IN THE EARLY 80`S.IT WOULD TAKE ABOUT 2-3 HOURS TO FIX THE CHECKS/CRACKING.THIS HOUSE HAS NEVER BEEN CAULKED AS IT DOESN`T REQUIRE IT.[BUT TO SPLIT ALL THE LOGS.TO CAULK ALL THOSE LOGS.TO FUSS WITH THEM..WE ARE LOOKING AT HUNDREDS OF MAN HOURS.] [12]WOULDN`T IT BE SIMPLER TO JUST USE THE PROPER SIZED LOGS TO BEGIN WITH??? [13]HARDER TO MAKE CHANGES IN THE WALL....LIKE ADDING A VENT. [14]I`M SURE AFTER ALL IS SAID AND DONE THAT IF YOU LOOKED AT SPLIT LOGS YOU WOULD INDEED STILL FIND CHECKING/CRACKING IN THE SPLIT SECTIONS....THUS MAKING THE WHOLE PROCESS REDUNDANT. [15]I WASN`T ABLE TO INSPECT ANY SPLIT LOGS IN A WALL...NO ONES DONE IT THAT I`VE SEEN BUILD LOCALLY. [16]I JUST VISITED A CORDWOOD SITE AND THE GUY IS A CORDWOOD INSTRUCTOR...YET HE LAYS SOME OF THESE SPLIT LOGS SPLIT LIKE A QUARTER MOON.CURVE SIDE UP[THIS WILL HOLD WATER].YOU SHOULD AT LEAST TRY TO TURN THE BARK SIDE UP TO TRY AND DRAIN THE WATER AWAY. NOTE:CHECKING THAT SHOWS UP ON THE OUTSIDE WALL DOESN`T ALL TRAVEL THROUGH THE WALL IN MY ESTIMATE IT`S ABOUT 10%.[NOT 10% OF THE WALL THATS 10% OF THE FEW THAT CHECK BADLY].BY PROPER SEASONING AND WOOD SELECTION THIS CAN BE CUT BACK. PLUS CHECKING IS EASY TO CAULK. SO IF IT TAKES 2-3 HOURS TO CAULK ALL THE CHECKING ON THE OUTSIDE.....THEN IT WOULD TAKE ABOUT 12-20 MINUTES TO DO THE INSIDE.[BESIDES IF YOU SEASONED YOUR LOGS THE 2-3 YEARS MOST OF THE CHECKING WOULD BE OBVIOUS .SO CAULK THEM AND TURN THE CHECK SIDE DOWN AS YOU BUILD YOUR WALLS..YOU ALSO HAVE AN OPTION NOT TO USE THE SEVERELY CHECKED ONES.IF YOU USE OVER SIZED LOGS EXPECT OVER SIZED CHECKS. OPTIONS TO CONTROL CHECKING: [1]DRIVE WEDGES TO INDUCE THE CHECKING THIS WAY YOU COULD TURN THE CHECK DOWN TO DRAIN. [2]RUN A SMALL CHANNEL WITH A CHOP SAW DOWN THE LOG TO HELP INDUCE CHECKING.. [3]SELECT LOGS LESS LIKELY TO CHECK AND USE ONLY SMALLER LOGS |
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| R-VALUE OF WOOD: THE OLD ENGINEERING BOOKS[CIRCA 1950] GIVE SOFTWOOD AN R-VALUE OF R=1.0/R=1.25 PER INCH....HOWEVER THE REAL VALUE FROM TESTS DONE IN 1978.SHOWS THE TRUE VALUE TO BE R=2.0.PER INCH.[THEY MONITORED A LOG HOUSE AND FOUND AS THE TEMPERATURE DROPPED THE R-VALUE WENT UP.] COPIES OF THIS REPORT CAN BE OBTAINED FROM... EASTERN FOREST PRODUCTS LABORATORY CANADIAN FORESTRY SERVICE DEPT. OF FISHERIES AND ENVIROMENT OTTAWA.KIG 3Z5 CANADA ASK FOR THE"THERMAL RESISTIVITY OF WHITE PINE" BY:A.J.NANASSY AND T.SZABO INTERIM REPORT EFPL-6-3-307 NOTE:SINCE IT WAS CONDUCTED BY THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT OF CANADA...IT SHOULD CARRY SOME CLOUT IN CANADA. AMERICAN STUDY: THE ENERGY ECONOMICS AND THERMAL PERFORMANCE OF LOG HOMES BY:DORIS MUIR AND PAUL OSBORNE PUB: MUIR PUBLISHING NOTE:THE RESULTS OF A LANDMARK ENERGY TEST BY THE NATIONAL BUREAU OF STANDARDS. AVAILABLE IN A CONSUMER EDITION AND A TECHNICAL VERSION ANOTHER STUDY I`M AWARE OF SINCE THE EARLY 80`S. PEOPLE CALL THESE FOLLOWING CONCEPTS OF MINE WEIRD AND CRAZY BECAUSE THEY DON`T APPEAR IN CORDWOOD LITERATURE OR CONFLICT WITH WHAT IS WRITEN...........LETS JUST SAY THAT DOESN`T MAKE THEM WRONG! [1]R-VALUES OF WOOD (a) TWO RELEVENT REPORTS PRODUCED BY CDN AND USA GOVERNMENTS AS PROOF (b)HAVE A REPORT FROM AN ENERGY EXPERT WHO STATES THAT END GRAIN AND SIDE GRIAN R-VALUE DIFFERENCES AREN`T WORTH FACTORING IN.. [2]SEASONING SOFTWOOD...I RECOMMEND 2-3 YEARS[THIS PREVENTS SHRINKAGE AND ALLOWS FOR CHECKING TO BE CHINKED BEFORE YOU BUILD] (a)FIRST TO MENTION TO CUT THEM A LITTLE LONGER [TO ALLOW FOR ERRORS.FUNGI,MOLD,ROT ETC] (b)ALSO RECOMMEND TO CUT MORE THAN YOU NEED[BETTER THAN RUNNING OUT.ALLOWS FOR DESIGN CHANGES] [3] IF YOU RUN A CHOPSAW DOWN YOUR LOGS YOU COULD INDUCE CHECKING IN ONE AREA. [4]I TREAT MY GREEN LOGS WITH A BORATE SOLUTION AFTER I PEEL THEM. (a)GIVES THEM PROTECTION FROM INSECTS AND ROT. (b)ALSO SLOWS DOWN THE CURING PROCESS. [5]RAISING LOGS 24" OFF THE GROUND (a)THE HIGHER THE DRIER[CAN`T UNDERSTAND WHY THIS GOT AS MUCH ATTENTION AS IT GOT] (b)WATER SPLASHES AND SNOW MELTS AGAINST IT. (c)EXTRA PROTECTION FROM FLOODING OR WATER RUN OFF. [6]OPPOSED TO HARDWOOD USEAGE. (a)WITH DOCUMENTED REPORTS OF WALL FAILURES PEOPLE STILL ARGUE THIS OUT. (b)SINCE MOST EXPERTS HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH IT...NEWBEE`S SHOULDN`T CONSIDER IT. [7]I MADE A STATEMENT ABOUT A CERTAIN TYPE WALL WITH NO TIES...NOW THEY HAVE BEEN ADDED APPARENTLY.[BUT NOT IN BOOK OR CROSS SECTIONS OF WALLS] [8]SEALING LOGS WHEN THEY BREATH IS NOT A GOOD IDEA.YOU MIGHT THINK YOU ARE STOPPING WATER GETTING IN.BUT REMEMBER THAT GOES BOTH WAYS..IT STOPS WATER GETTING OUT. (a)YOUR LOGS AND MORTAR HAVE TO BE WATER /VAPOUR PERMIABLE[THEY BOTH BREATH] (b)ANYTIME HISTORICAL BUILDINGS ARE SEALED THEY START TO ROT (c)MOISTURE TRAPPED IN MORTAR CAN FREEZE AND FLAKE OFF [9]WATER AND WIND PENETRATION OF LOG WALLS AND ERODING OF SAWDUST INSULATION DOESN`T SEEM TO BE FOUND IN BOOKS. (a)THESE FACTOR IN ...IN THE REAL WORLD. (b)CAN BE PREVENTED IF BUILT PROPERLY [10]LOTS OF PEOPLE RECOMMEND 2-2 1/2 STORIES....I DON`T! (a)THE MORE WALL SPACE THE MORE LIKELY YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS.[LESS LIKELY THE OVERHANG CAN PROTECT THE WALL SURFACE] (b)SINGLE STORY MORE PRACTICAL [12]I LIKE TO KEEP THINGS SIMPLE[I KEEP AWAY FROM POST AND BEAM,SOD ROOFS,THATCHED ROOFS, DOUBLE WALL ETC..SOME SAY I`M AGAINST THEM.....NOT REALLY.I JUST DON`T THINK THE AVERAGE PERSON HAS THE ABILITY TO TO BUILD OR USE THEM.I CONSIDER MOST OF THEM TO BE TRADES THAT REQUIRE SPECIAL SKILLS.I`VE SEEM SOD ROOFS,THATCHED ROOFS FAIL....BUT IF YOU ARE AN EXPERT.SURE GO WITH IT OR HIRE A PROFESSIONAL. |
| SAFETY CONCERNS: |
| SAFETY CONCERNS. [1]YOU SHOULD TREAT YOUR SIGHT LIKE A CONSTRUCTION SITE.[WEAR STEEL TOE BOOTS,HARD HATS, GLOVES,,SAFETY GOGGLES WHEN USING CUTTING GRINDING EQUIPMENT,MIXING ETC.] [2]BY FIRE CODE IF YOU ARE USING GAS OPERATED EQUIPMENT...YOU HAVE TO HAVE WATER/FIRE EXTINGUISHER ON SIGHT [3] BEFORE YOU START ANY FIRES BE SURE YOU DON`T NEED A PERMIT. [4] THERE SHOULD BE A FIRST AID KIT ON SIGHT. [5]PRACTICE GOOD HOUSE KEEPING[KEEP AREAS CLEAR.DON`T LEAN THINGS OVER THAT COULD FALL., WATCH ELECTRICAL CORDS,] [6]NO CLOWNING AROUND [7]I`VE JUST BEEN TOLD THAT IN MY PROVINCE THE PROVINCIAL SAFETY CODE NOW INCLUDES PRIVATE RESIDENTIAL HOMES.IF YOU ARE DOING WORK ON YOUR HOUSE;IT IS DEEMED A CONSTRUCTION SITE[IE: IF A SAFETY GUY DROVE BY YOUR HOUSE AND YOU WERE SHINGLING THE ROOF.BUT YOU DIDN`T HAVE A SAFETY HARNESS AND A RAILING AROUND THE ROOF OR STAGEING.HE CAN CHARGE YOU UNDER THE SAFETY ACT.PLUS YOU WOULD BEREQUIRED TO WEAR STEEL TOED BOOTS AND A HARD HAT.] CORDWOOD HAZARDS: [1] BE CAREFUL OF THE DUST FROM THE LIME AND PORTLAND CEMENT (a)] THE LIME CAN BURN YOU...SO WEAR GOGGLES WHEN AROUND IT.AND WEAR RUBBER GLOVES WHEN HANDLING IT AND THE MORTAR AS WELL..[SINCE IT ACTS LIKE A BASE...HAVE VINAGER AROUND TO RUB ON SKIN WHERE YOU COME IN CONTACT.THE VINEGAR WILL NEUTRALIZE IT] [2]WEAR RUBBER GLOVES WHEN HANDLING THE MORTAR AS WELL.GOGGLES WOULD BE ADVISEABLE WHEN YOU ARE MUDDING/LAYING MORTAR.WHEN I WORK AROUND CONCRETE/MORTAR MY SKIN GETS DRIED OUT SO A BOTTLE OF MOISTURIZER AT DAYS END MIGHT HELP. [3]BE CAREFUL OF ANY ELECTRICAL OR GAS DRIVEN POWER TOOLS .THEY AREN`T TOYS.[MY INDUSTRIAL ARTS TEACHER USED TO KEEP A BOTTLE OF MISTAKES...ENDS OFF FINGERS PRESERVED IN FORMALDAHYDE.] [4]POST AND BEAM....I HEAR A LOT OF PEOPLE TALK ABOUT BUILDING POST AND BEAM WITH A ROOF OVER THEIR HEADS TO STAY DRY.[SINCE I`VE SEEN BLOCK WALLS BLOW OVER,FORMWORK THAT WAS WELL BRACED,100 UNIT APARTMENT BUILDING THAT WAS ROOF TIGHT.I`VE ALSO SEEN A POST AND BEAM STRUCTURE BLOW DOWN.BEFORE THE ROOF WASN`T TIGHT.]I`M A LITTLE LEARY ABOUT ADVISING PEOPLE TO DO THIS AS THE ROOF MIGHT COLLAPSE.THE BUILDERS OF THESE OTHER PROJECTS WERE PROFESSIONALS.THE STRUCTURES WERE ENGINEERED..SINCE THEY DON`T DO THIS IN COMMERCIAL OR OTHER RESIDENTIAL BUILDINGS THERE MUST BE A SAFETY CONCERN.... [5]WEAR GLOVES WHEN CARRYING THE LOGS TO AVOID SPLINTERS.. [6]DURING THE EXCAVATION.STAY AWAY FROM THE MACHINES.THEY HAVE BLIND SPOTS WHERE THE OPERATOR CAN`T SEE YOU.[TO GET AN OPERATORS ATTENTION THROW A ROCK INFRONT OF THE MACHINE] (a)TRENCHES AREN`T SAFE SO WATCH THE EDGES AND IF ANY DOUBT HAVE THE OPERATOR SLOPE THE EDGES.[IN MY WORK HISTORY I`M AWARE OF 3 PEOPLE BEING BURIED ALIVE.] LINKS: LOG WIZARD[PEELING ATTCHMENT FOR YOUR CHAINSAW WATCH THE VIDEO ITS FASTER THAN A DRAW KNIFE] http://www.logwizard.com/video.php3 |
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